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make a stained glass mosaic portrait from a photograph.
by：Top-In
2020-08-05
For glass newbies, make a description of the 8 \"x 10\" frame color glass portrait from your theme photo.
Please read the supply list and the entire instructions before you start.
You need about 3 days from start to finish: one day stick the glass to the frame and let it dry, one day stick the glass to the glass and let it dry, one day, let the mud dry so you can seal it. SUPPLIES: (
See instructure for details, cost USD, estimate)frame ($10-$20)flat surface (
I hope you already have it. PATIENCE (priceless)glass ($20-
$60 depending on your design)ruler (
If you don\'t have the right one, usually around $10, add a few bucks if you need to buy the Cork separately)glue/s ($5-20)glass cutter ($1-$40)cutter oil (about $3)glass nippers ($25)Running pliers (about $10)
Breaker/grozer pliers (about $8)grout ($1-$10)
Plastic bowls and spoons ($2? )paper towels ($4-$8)
Newspaper/plastic cloth ($1)masking tape ($2)
Adhesive bandage (
When you cut yourself with glass)($3)gloves ($3)sharpie ($1)grout sealant ($5)
Frame hanger ($1)Bamboo string ($2? )Total cost $107
$236 based on what you already have and your budget.
If you don\'t live near a craft shop or a specialty stained glass shop, www. delphiglass.
Com is a company with good reputation.
If not all of these supplies, most of them can be ordered from a well-stocked store.
There must be something to do with your mosaic, right?
So the first step is to find a framework that you like.
For your first one, let\'s go with 8 \"x 10.
It\'s better to be wooden, no paint, and if it has any paint or fancy gold plating, it\'s better to have some kind of protective coating.
At some point you will grout and use glue, so if something is scratched or worn out, the frame is better to be simple and easy to use.
Hopefully your frame has glass, but if not, don\'t worry, the next step will include fixing the glass.
What do you need to stick your mosaic on, in which case we will do the glass-on-glass.
This means that the light will be displayed through your mosaic, but it will be a bit ugly behind.
If you would rather it be completely opaque, you need to get a piece of cardboard or other hard, thin substance and cut it to fit the back of your frame.
If you are using transparent or opaque glass that comes with the frame, you will be ready for the next step.
If you need to cut a larger piece of glass to fit into the frame, here\'s how you can do it: 1.
Measure your frame and note the size of the back hole that the background glass needs to fill.
It will be larger than 8 \"x 10\" or a frame of any size you are using because the front of the frame is smaller than the back. 2.
Get your background glass whether it\'s old window glass, mirror or opaque glass.
If you are using window glass, do not use any glass with potential cracks (
You can\'t always see them, so if the windows are broken in the past, expect invisible hair cracks in the glass). 3. With a ruler (
Preferably metal, Cork.
Back ruler to prevent slipping)
, Mark your glass with a sharpie where you need to cut.
If you have a square corner, it only takes 2 cuts to use it.
If your corners are all bad, zoom in about an inch from the nearest edge and do 4 cuts. 4.
If you don\'t have a glass cutter yet, buy one.
I like it handled by enthusiasts, but it\'s OK with a simple old-fashioned cutter.
Get the cutter oil because cutting with a dry wheel can cause debris, breaking tilt and terrible noise. 5.
If this is the first time you cut the glass, be sure to read if there are any instructions on the glass cutter.
Practice on scrap first.
Remember to refuel your cutting wheel and press hard.
Only cut in one direction, do not cut another, cut your glass on a flat surface or on a table, if the glass has a texture, cut on the smooth side of the glass.
It\'s usually easier to stay away from yourself than to hurt yourself, though safe-
In this case, it is not important to be wise. 6.
Use a ruler as a guide to cut down your glass panel.
Place the cutter on the glass next to the ruler to see how close it is actually to the ruler and align the cut accordingly.
Your pane may be a little smaller than it should be, but if it\'s bigger it doesn\'t fit and you have to grind it down. (
We will not grind in this instruction. )
Oh, be careful. the glass is sharp; duh. 7.
Once you have finished cutting, break the glass on the score with a running clamp.
They are curved, which puts pressure on the glass and causes the glass to break on the cutting line made by the tool.
Break the Glass according to the illustration I provided.
If you don\'t have running pliers and refuse to buy or can\'t find them for some reason, you need a straight table and some courage.
Put the score on the edge of the table, then lift and slam (gently)
Glass down.
Keep moving outside of the table and grab it firmly with your fingertips so you don\'t drop the glass.
OK, you need a good craft glue, preferably dry and clean, glue that works on glass and wood heads. (
Your frame is made of plastic, stone or whatever.
The stone frame is awesome.
Very heavy but great. )
You can use silicone for this step.
I prefer silicone.
It\'s like gel craft glue, but you can also use paste glue.
I would not recommend the E6000 to do the work as it is light sensitive and will signal after hanging on your window for a while.
That\'s too bad.
Make sure your glue is not light sensitive.
Stick your glass behind your frame.
It doesn\'t need to be a fully waterproof seal or something, but you want it to stay there.
I usually just put a uniform bead on the whole back.
It will prevent the mud from penetrating later and make it very strong.
Let your glue dry as long as you need it.
I usually let me sit all night.
Find your theme!
In the case of this structure, it will be a portrait.
Do it if you need to go out and take pictures.
Good if you already have photos.
Put it into your favorite image editing software, crop and adjust to 8 \"x 10 \".
To make a realistic mosaic, then you just print it out, cut it if necessary, and then paste it to the back of the frame like a build template.
I\'m warning you now that I don\'t do photo-level style because it\'s hard. Really hard.
You need more small things, a lot of colors, and a lot more feel than you think or have. (
Unless you do that, you\'re dedicated to damn it in this case. )
To do a stylized mosaic like I did, please use the filter or hand-draw the photo with an tracing drawing.
I use the \"cut\" filter in photoshop, usually 2-
4 layers depending on how many colors I want to use.
Play it to see what you want to do and it will help if you choose the color theme now.
With mine I went with black/white/red and a little green.
Once the template is complete, print it out and securely paste it to the back of the frame.
OK, now you can start the fun/boring part.
Collect the colored glass you want to use.
Craft shops or specialty glass shops should be available or you can order them online.
Away from textured glass and Cathedral (see-
Through or transparent)and streaky (
Partially transparent)
Glass, and try to stick to a smooth opaque glass, sometimes also known as Opal or Ruguang glass.
Once you get the glass, you need to cut it into tiles.
I have chosen random shapes, but you can make some small squares or rectangles if you want.
I like the organic, angular look I get in my way.
Cut the strips with your glass cutter.
Make different widths, or if you feel comfortable with the cutter, make the curved lines so you can get a lot of different widths.
Use your running pliers again to break the strap (
You need pliers this time).
If the straps are too thin, you can try to break them with the breaker/grozer pliers, but this can get pretty bad soon.
Use your mosaic pliers (
Do not use porcelain pliers as they will crush the glass)
Put the pieces on the strap in a small bowl or cup.
You can make different shapes with different angles.
You can also make shapes with your glass cutter, but talk about a time killer. . .
Just bring the glass tongs.
They usually carry small wheels and break the glass between them with pressure.
If you have a wrist tube problem, you will get some hand exercises and be careful. Remember paint-by-numbers?
Except for glass and glue, it\'s like this.
My strategy is to start by selecting a color and finish the color before I move on to the next one.
If you\'re going to make a bigger mosaic (
Like a 16 \"x 20\" omg)
Instead, you might want to go by section.
Keep in mind that it still needs 6-for experienced mosaic enthusiasts like me-
8 hours to make a small mosaic portrait because of all the details.
Plan accordingly.
I usually put all my stuff in front of the TV, on the tray or on the table, the mosaic on my lap, or on the table.
If you need rest, rest.
Just put your mosaic in a safe and flat place.
What you need for your glue is paste glue, not gel or silicone. I like omni-
Gel, because it dries a bit slowly, so you have time to change your mind, or move something and it becomes clear and waterproof.
Weldond is OK, but it dries a little faster and the bottle seems to be stuck a lot.
Even if it dries faster, it takes longer to set up and clear.
However, it is easier to find in the store.
* Sigh * pick up your favorite glue and go get it.
If you\'re not sure, do an experiment with scrap first.
I basically start with corners or edges and work inward.
I put a small pile of glue on paper towels or aluminum foil and patted each piece as I walked.
Another way is to lay out all your parts without glue, I have used and see successful use, but I will be frustrated if something goes wrong, then put a contact paper on it so everything sticks to it.
Put something flat and solid on the contact paper, such as a piece of glass or a book, then use it to turn the whole thing upside down, then remove the frame and apply glue on a thin layer with a brush.
Then put the glue on.
Put the fully loaded frame back on the Shard and flip it back.
Pat the contact paper, rub it, make it good and stick it together, then wait for it to dry and peel off the contact paper.
The problem with this approach is that the parts move badly for several reasons.
The first is usually that if there is no contact paper moving slightly, it is almost impossible to put down the contact paper, and the second is that the contact paper is not sticky enough to hold the smallest pieces, when flipped, they fall off or fall off.
So, it\'s a choice, but I don\'t think it\'s the best choice.
Give it a try if you want, I \'ve seen people do it successfully, but there\'s more afterwardsthe-
The fact is fixed more than I thought.
** If you plan to grout, remember to leave space between each piece.
Technically you don\'t have to apply it for it to be a mosaic, but I found it to make the portrait look more complete, smoother and professional.
Make sure your mosaic is dry well before grouting. At least a day.
You don\'t need a special grouting material and don\'t let anyone tell you what you need.
You don\'t need to point to Diamond Crete or fancy colors and stuff, but if you have fancy stuff
Grouting pants, can be used at will.
Keep in mind that DiamondCrete is really bad because it is mainly used to make stepping stones into the mold, so if you use it in this project, use much less water than they suggest in the direction.
Get some mortar from the garden supplies store or craft store.
I prefer black in most projects, but I also use white, gray, pink and slate blue.
They make more colors, so buy something that doesn\'t conflict with your glass or frame.
My store used to buy big bags from grouting suppliers and split them into 1 pound bags for a dollar a bag (ripoff! ).
If you buy a large bag and use it only a little, remember to store the grout in a closed container for next use.
Don\'t get the mud off the drain, carpet or clothes.
It\'s not easy to come out.
It will clog the hell in your sink.
Put it in a disposable plastic bowl, mix it with a disposable plastic spoon, or if you want to use something reusable, take it out when you\'re done, get it down with a hose for grouting only and not for eating.
Mix it with enough water to have the texture of the molded wet sand, not wet enough to bubble or smooth.
Experiment a little bit, add a little water at a time, stir after each addition.
You will learn how much water you need through experience.
Make sure you protect your home!
If you need grouting in the room, you can put some newspaper or plastic cloth.
Always use gloves and the color of the mud will surprise you.
Make sure you protect your frame!
Shielding tape is the easiest way.
Cover any inch you don\'t want to become a frame of the same color as your grout and get scratched to death.
Take a handful of your mud and press it on your mosaic.
Keep squeezing before every little corner and gap is filled with mud.
More than you need, please feel free to apply.
It will cover your mosaic for the time being and your art will look like a sandbox. It\'s okay!
Wait about 5 minutes for the grout to start drying.
When you can wipe the paper towel on it and get it up enough to see the glass and not just apply it around the grout, it can be cleaned up.
Dry paper towels, wet paper towels, sponges, rags can be used no matter what you want.
Just wipe off the grout and be careful not to tear off the masking tape.
Make sure to take out any blocks or deposits from the corner where the mud will be hidden.
Clean it to your high standards (
This is your first one anyway)
Clean yourself up.
Once your art area is tidy, peel the masking tape down and throw it away.
If there is any grout mark on the frame on the sneaky Grout infiltrated from the tape, wipe it clean with a wet towel.
You can try alcohol if they don\'t wipe.
If this does not work, decorate the frame with paint or marks.
If this does not work, you will most likely need to redraw the frame. Then let it dry.
About a day.
This step is optional.
If you are using diamond concrete, you do not need to seal it, but feel free to do so if you are using standard commercial grout.
A dry and transparent grouting material is obtained.
This is important, so I will enter it again.
Dry and clean sealing material.
Many sealant add a layer of milk that looks like crap to your awesome mosaic.
I don\'t remember the name I used, but it came in a bright yellow and green bottle and worked like a charm.
Seal according to the instructions on the bottle.
You usually want to wear two coats.
It shouldn\'t have any impact on your framework, but if you want to re-
Bring it, feel free.
You can use a standard braces to hang the part, or hang the eye hook on the top of the frame, but, if possible, avoid using a thread to go through the \"frame hanger\" setting on the back.
It puts pressure on the glass over time, which can cause the backing glass to break.
See illustrations. Okay, you\'re done! Congrats!
Please read the supply list and the entire instructions before you start.
You need about 3 days from start to finish: one day stick the glass to the frame and let it dry, one day stick the glass to the glass and let it dry, one day, let the mud dry so you can seal it. SUPPLIES: (
See instructure for details, cost USD, estimate)frame ($10-$20)flat surface (
I hope you already have it. PATIENCE (priceless)glass ($20-
$60 depending on your design)ruler (
If you don\'t have the right one, usually around $10, add a few bucks if you need to buy the Cork separately)glue/s ($5-20)glass cutter ($1-$40)cutter oil (about $3)glass nippers ($25)Running pliers (about $10)
Breaker/grozer pliers (about $8)grout ($1-$10)
Plastic bowls and spoons ($2? )paper towels ($4-$8)
Newspaper/plastic cloth ($1)masking tape ($2)
Adhesive bandage (
When you cut yourself with glass)($3)gloves ($3)sharpie ($1)grout sealant ($5)
Frame hanger ($1)Bamboo string ($2? )Total cost $107
$236 based on what you already have and your budget.
If you don\'t live near a craft shop or a specialty stained glass shop, www. delphiglass.
Com is a company with good reputation.
If not all of these supplies, most of them can be ordered from a well-stocked store.
There must be something to do with your mosaic, right?
So the first step is to find a framework that you like.
For your first one, let\'s go with 8 \"x 10.
It\'s better to be wooden, no paint, and if it has any paint or fancy gold plating, it\'s better to have some kind of protective coating.
At some point you will grout and use glue, so if something is scratched or worn out, the frame is better to be simple and easy to use.
Hopefully your frame has glass, but if not, don\'t worry, the next step will include fixing the glass.
What do you need to stick your mosaic on, in which case we will do the glass-on-glass.
This means that the light will be displayed through your mosaic, but it will be a bit ugly behind.
If you would rather it be completely opaque, you need to get a piece of cardboard or other hard, thin substance and cut it to fit the back of your frame.
If you are using transparent or opaque glass that comes with the frame, you will be ready for the next step.
If you need to cut a larger piece of glass to fit into the frame, here\'s how you can do it: 1.
Measure your frame and note the size of the back hole that the background glass needs to fill.
It will be larger than 8 \"x 10\" or a frame of any size you are using because the front of the frame is smaller than the back. 2.
Get your background glass whether it\'s old window glass, mirror or opaque glass.
If you are using window glass, do not use any glass with potential cracks (
You can\'t always see them, so if the windows are broken in the past, expect invisible hair cracks in the glass). 3. With a ruler (
Preferably metal, Cork.
Back ruler to prevent slipping)
, Mark your glass with a sharpie where you need to cut.
If you have a square corner, it only takes 2 cuts to use it.
If your corners are all bad, zoom in about an inch from the nearest edge and do 4 cuts. 4.
If you don\'t have a glass cutter yet, buy one.
I like it handled by enthusiasts, but it\'s OK with a simple old-fashioned cutter.
Get the cutter oil because cutting with a dry wheel can cause debris, breaking tilt and terrible noise. 5.
If this is the first time you cut the glass, be sure to read if there are any instructions on the glass cutter.
Practice on scrap first.
Remember to refuel your cutting wheel and press hard.
Only cut in one direction, do not cut another, cut your glass on a flat surface or on a table, if the glass has a texture, cut on the smooth side of the glass.
It\'s usually easier to stay away from yourself than to hurt yourself, though safe-
In this case, it is not important to be wise. 6.
Use a ruler as a guide to cut down your glass panel.
Place the cutter on the glass next to the ruler to see how close it is actually to the ruler and align the cut accordingly.
Your pane may be a little smaller than it should be, but if it\'s bigger it doesn\'t fit and you have to grind it down. (
We will not grind in this instruction. )
Oh, be careful. the glass is sharp; duh. 7.
Once you have finished cutting, break the glass on the score with a running clamp.
They are curved, which puts pressure on the glass and causes the glass to break on the cutting line made by the tool.
Break the Glass according to the illustration I provided.
If you don\'t have running pliers and refuse to buy or can\'t find them for some reason, you need a straight table and some courage.
Put the score on the edge of the table, then lift and slam (gently)
Glass down.
Keep moving outside of the table and grab it firmly with your fingertips so you don\'t drop the glass.
OK, you need a good craft glue, preferably dry and clean, glue that works on glass and wood heads. (
Your frame is made of plastic, stone or whatever.
The stone frame is awesome.
Very heavy but great. )
You can use silicone for this step.
I prefer silicone.
It\'s like gel craft glue, but you can also use paste glue.
I would not recommend the E6000 to do the work as it is light sensitive and will signal after hanging on your window for a while.
That\'s too bad.
Make sure your glue is not light sensitive.
Stick your glass behind your frame.
It doesn\'t need to be a fully waterproof seal or something, but you want it to stay there.
I usually just put a uniform bead on the whole back.
It will prevent the mud from penetrating later and make it very strong.
Let your glue dry as long as you need it.
I usually let me sit all night.
Find your theme!
In the case of this structure, it will be a portrait.
Do it if you need to go out and take pictures.
Good if you already have photos.
Put it into your favorite image editing software, crop and adjust to 8 \"x 10 \".
To make a realistic mosaic, then you just print it out, cut it if necessary, and then paste it to the back of the frame like a build template.
I\'m warning you now that I don\'t do photo-level style because it\'s hard. Really hard.
You need more small things, a lot of colors, and a lot more feel than you think or have. (
Unless you do that, you\'re dedicated to damn it in this case. )
To do a stylized mosaic like I did, please use the filter or hand-draw the photo with an tracing drawing.
I use the \"cut\" filter in photoshop, usually 2-
4 layers depending on how many colors I want to use.
Play it to see what you want to do and it will help if you choose the color theme now.
With mine I went with black/white/red and a little green.
Once the template is complete, print it out and securely paste it to the back of the frame.
OK, now you can start the fun/boring part.
Collect the colored glass you want to use.
Craft shops or specialty glass shops should be available or you can order them online.
Away from textured glass and Cathedral (see-
Through or transparent)and streaky (
Partially transparent)
Glass, and try to stick to a smooth opaque glass, sometimes also known as Opal or Ruguang glass.
Once you get the glass, you need to cut it into tiles.
I have chosen random shapes, but you can make some small squares or rectangles if you want.
I like the organic, angular look I get in my way.
Cut the strips with your glass cutter.
Make different widths, or if you feel comfortable with the cutter, make the curved lines so you can get a lot of different widths.
Use your running pliers again to break the strap (
You need pliers this time).
If the straps are too thin, you can try to break them with the breaker/grozer pliers, but this can get pretty bad soon.
Use your mosaic pliers (
Do not use porcelain pliers as they will crush the glass)
Put the pieces on the strap in a small bowl or cup.
You can make different shapes with different angles.
You can also make shapes with your glass cutter, but talk about a time killer. . .
Just bring the glass tongs.
They usually carry small wheels and break the glass between them with pressure.
If you have a wrist tube problem, you will get some hand exercises and be careful. Remember paint-by-numbers?
Except for glass and glue, it\'s like this.
My strategy is to start by selecting a color and finish the color before I move on to the next one.
If you\'re going to make a bigger mosaic (
Like a 16 \"x 20\" omg)
Instead, you might want to go by section.
Keep in mind that it still needs 6-for experienced mosaic enthusiasts like me-
8 hours to make a small mosaic portrait because of all the details.
Plan accordingly.
I usually put all my stuff in front of the TV, on the tray or on the table, the mosaic on my lap, or on the table.
If you need rest, rest.
Just put your mosaic in a safe and flat place.
What you need for your glue is paste glue, not gel or silicone. I like omni-
Gel, because it dries a bit slowly, so you have time to change your mind, or move something and it becomes clear and waterproof.
Weldond is OK, but it dries a little faster and the bottle seems to be stuck a lot.
Even if it dries faster, it takes longer to set up and clear.
However, it is easier to find in the store.
* Sigh * pick up your favorite glue and go get it.
If you\'re not sure, do an experiment with scrap first.
I basically start with corners or edges and work inward.
I put a small pile of glue on paper towels or aluminum foil and patted each piece as I walked.
Another way is to lay out all your parts without glue, I have used and see successful use, but I will be frustrated if something goes wrong, then put a contact paper on it so everything sticks to it.
Put something flat and solid on the contact paper, such as a piece of glass or a book, then use it to turn the whole thing upside down, then remove the frame and apply glue on a thin layer with a brush.
Then put the glue on.
Put the fully loaded frame back on the Shard and flip it back.
Pat the contact paper, rub it, make it good and stick it together, then wait for it to dry and peel off the contact paper.
The problem with this approach is that the parts move badly for several reasons.
The first is usually that if there is no contact paper moving slightly, it is almost impossible to put down the contact paper, and the second is that the contact paper is not sticky enough to hold the smallest pieces, when flipped, they fall off or fall off.
So, it\'s a choice, but I don\'t think it\'s the best choice.
Give it a try if you want, I \'ve seen people do it successfully, but there\'s more afterwardsthe-
The fact is fixed more than I thought.
** If you plan to grout, remember to leave space between each piece.
Technically you don\'t have to apply it for it to be a mosaic, but I found it to make the portrait look more complete, smoother and professional.
Make sure your mosaic is dry well before grouting. At least a day.
You don\'t need a special grouting material and don\'t let anyone tell you what you need.
You don\'t need to point to Diamond Crete or fancy colors and stuff, but if you have fancy stuff
Grouting pants, can be used at will.
Keep in mind that DiamondCrete is really bad because it is mainly used to make stepping stones into the mold, so if you use it in this project, use much less water than they suggest in the direction.
Get some mortar from the garden supplies store or craft store.
I prefer black in most projects, but I also use white, gray, pink and slate blue.
They make more colors, so buy something that doesn\'t conflict with your glass or frame.
My store used to buy big bags from grouting suppliers and split them into 1 pound bags for a dollar a bag (ripoff! ).
If you buy a large bag and use it only a little, remember to store the grout in a closed container for next use.
Don\'t get the mud off the drain, carpet or clothes.
It\'s not easy to come out.
It will clog the hell in your sink.
Put it in a disposable plastic bowl, mix it with a disposable plastic spoon, or if you want to use something reusable, take it out when you\'re done, get it down with a hose for grouting only and not for eating.
Mix it with enough water to have the texture of the molded wet sand, not wet enough to bubble or smooth.
Experiment a little bit, add a little water at a time, stir after each addition.
You will learn how much water you need through experience.
Make sure you protect your home!
If you need grouting in the room, you can put some newspaper or plastic cloth.
Always use gloves and the color of the mud will surprise you.
Make sure you protect your frame!
Shielding tape is the easiest way.
Cover any inch you don\'t want to become a frame of the same color as your grout and get scratched to death.
Take a handful of your mud and press it on your mosaic.
Keep squeezing before every little corner and gap is filled with mud.
More than you need, please feel free to apply.
It will cover your mosaic for the time being and your art will look like a sandbox. It\'s okay!
Wait about 5 minutes for the grout to start drying.
When you can wipe the paper towel on it and get it up enough to see the glass and not just apply it around the grout, it can be cleaned up.
Dry paper towels, wet paper towels, sponges, rags can be used no matter what you want.
Just wipe off the grout and be careful not to tear off the masking tape.
Make sure to take out any blocks or deposits from the corner where the mud will be hidden.
Clean it to your high standards (
This is your first one anyway)
Clean yourself up.
Once your art area is tidy, peel the masking tape down and throw it away.
If there is any grout mark on the frame on the sneaky Grout infiltrated from the tape, wipe it clean with a wet towel.
You can try alcohol if they don\'t wipe.
If this does not work, decorate the frame with paint or marks.
If this does not work, you will most likely need to redraw the frame. Then let it dry.
About a day.
This step is optional.
If you are using diamond concrete, you do not need to seal it, but feel free to do so if you are using standard commercial grout.
A dry and transparent grouting material is obtained.
This is important, so I will enter it again.
Dry and clean sealing material.
Many sealant add a layer of milk that looks like crap to your awesome mosaic.
I don\'t remember the name I used, but it came in a bright yellow and green bottle and worked like a charm.
Seal according to the instructions on the bottle.
You usually want to wear two coats.
It shouldn\'t have any impact on your framework, but if you want to re-
Bring it, feel free.
You can use a standard braces to hang the part, or hang the eye hook on the top of the frame, but, if possible, avoid using a thread to go through the \"frame hanger\" setting on the back.
It puts pressure on the glass over time, which can cause the backing glass to break.
See illustrations. Okay, you\'re done! Congrats!
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