make rad solar panels in minutes with a sweet desktop laminator
I know what you\'re thinking. It\'s written on your face. Man, you all! I\'m sitting here ready to make a solar panel and I\'m ready for my silicon battery and EVA, but my dang kid just threw my soldering iron on the glass I was going to use to make the front sheet and now the iron and glass are broken and on fire, respectively. How do I make solar panels now? The only other thing I had at home was a couple of transparent sheets and an office laminating machine. Don\'t worry, solar friend. it\'s terrible. I am here to tell you a sweet technique to make waterproof solar panels with silicon batteries that are not welded, have no glass, and have no money. All you need is a cheap Stapler ( Get mine for $15 from the Chinese staple food on the streets of Hong Kong ,! ) Some simple material and an iron will. It takes about five minutes to make a small panel, and it is very strong, waterproof and easy. Ready? Enter that shiny solar gap again! ( No, not that)p. s. My kid\'s cold solar guy came up on this instructive hayride and said something bad about us. How are you, Commission? This instruction is about making solar panels. Solar panels are different from solar cells- A solar cell is a piece of silicon. Normally, the solar cells are low. voltage, high- Current device, the output is about half a Volt, the current is proportional to the area of the battery and the intensity of the light. A modern 6 \"x 6\" battery gives out about 7A of max- Power current at 0. 5 V * electricity, there is not much you can do with 0. 5V and 7A. Therefore, we connect the solar cells in series to obtain useful voltage and current. If we connect ten solettes in series, we get a five volt voltage at the maximum power point, which is the usual useful voltage to power a small electronic device. Another tricky part of making solar panels is protecting delicate silicon batteries. These cells are very thin. -0. 2mm, they are easily affected by all the evil in the world- Statement of vibration, moisture, bending, heat, cold, bad feeling and injury. Once the cell electricity is connected, you have to find some way to wrap them in a powerful, sturdy sleeping bag so that you can maintain a warm feeling and something harmful to the outside. This process is called encapsulation. There are many ways to encapsulate solar panels- You can cover them with plastic resin, fix the glass and plastic in front of the panel with a huge press with heaters and vacuum cleaners, and other clever tricks to keep the silicon safe and dry. This note is about a new trick that I came up with a friend that allows you to connect your hands mechanically and physically protect them, all use standard office laminating machines and plastic film for a few cents. That\'s all about making solar panels. - Combine the silicon blocks together to protect them from the harsh outside world, and then ride the Sun waves into the glorious sunset. This is actually easy to do. Read on! * If a term like \"maximum power\" and \"short power\" Not familiar with circuit current, view other images. Homey Chill Solar Dude collates some quick tutorials explaining how all this works. One very special thing about this method of making solar panels is that it is very cheap and simple. The cheapest commercial solar panel costs $. 68/W, homemade solar panels usually run higher because they use very expensive packaging agents. These panels will not be as long as glass. Laminated Panels, but they are made of waste silicon and some plastic film, which, as far as I know, is the cheapest and simplest micro solar panel in the world. The raw material cost for the panel is about $. 50/W, good lamination in a minute, you are ready! It would be great if I said that myself. So you need some material. Here are the things you need and some places where you can get it: Shameless plugs: We continue to pack all these materials in a kit for hacking your own solar panels, you can get it here. You can also get the materials elsewhere, I have listed these sources but we are looking for high Quality materials that work normally. In addition, each kit comes with a love of ten microliters. PET laminated film- This movie will make the front and back of your solar panel. You can buy this laminated paper and ID card etc at your local office supplies store, or there are a lot of places on the Internet that specialize in selling solar PET Films. Solar film is UV- Stable and will last longer outdoors. EVA film -- EVA is a rubber plastic similar to hot glue. This is between the pet film and the solettes, forming a very clear index when heated A matching layer that combines solettes with PET. Mechanically, it also pads the delicate solettes and forms a moisture-proof barrier, waterproof panel. This is a very professional material, so it is unlikely that you will find a local source, but you can get a large roll on ebay for a very cheap price. Copper Tape -- This thing is amazing. Shiny, real copper with adhesive backing! You will use it for electrical contact with the enapsulted panel and establish a good connection that can be welded or crocodileclip onto. You can buy it at a craft store like Michaels or have a lot of cheap sources on ebay. Double-click the tape-- When solar cells are laminated, you use it to keep them in place. The plastic gets very blurry, and it pushes the cells around unless they are stuck underneath. The best thing is very thin, very strong tape. Buy at any stationery store. Solettes -- This is where the magic of the Sun happens. These are silicon batteries cut into any size you want. The size determines the current of the solar cell-- In this instructable I used 52mm x 13mm cells and it output about 200 mA ISCS. You can get these from us or ebay. If you do buy from ebay, be sure not to use tab-- All you want is bare solar cells. A laminator -- Any desktop is OK. Use one that you lie down or buy one from the office supplies store. Precautions for real solar thousands of birds-- If you make a simple mod for the laminating machine to slow it down, you can get a particularly beautiful laminating machine, so if this project excites you, you can consider using the laminating machine. I will go into details of the laminating press mods in another manual. The first thing you need is a pet backing. I really recommend using solar PET instead of laminated sheets- It\'s a bit thick, and when you melt it in a layer press, it doesn\'t get like a floppy disk. You can get the work panel either way ( I used laminated sheets in the video) But the panel of the solar PET film is cleaner. Decide what voltage panel you want to do. This will determine how many solettes are in your panel and how long the panel will end up. If your panel is voltage V, you will have V/2 1 solettes, I. e. If you are making a 5 v panel, there will be 11 solettes for this panel. Muwa solettes should have 1mm overlap with neighbors. I have attached a template for 5. Use the 5 v panel of 52x13mm solettes. This makes ~ 5. 5 V, 170 mA panel, good for charging 5 V electronics such as mobile phones, cameras and other devices. You can print the template directly on the rough face of the pet backing, which is very convenient. If you use it, print it out in a 1:1 ratio with A4 paper. It doesn\'t matter if you want to make solar panels of different sizes or voltages. Figure out how many solettes you use and how much your backing will take to accommodate them. You can increase your profit as you like around your solettes. Cut your back off your pet and you\'re on the way! The next thing to do is to put the copper tape on your backing. This tape will remove the electrical contacts from the panel and let you connect to the panel after lamination. You will notice different textures on both sides of the pet- There is a smooth side and a rough side. The rough side is coated with a layer to make it stick together better when laminated. You have to put solettes over there. Cut two pieces of copper tape and stick it on both ends of the pet. Leave a little tape at the end of the PET piece and wrap it up and stick it to the other side. Remember that everything on the rough side of the pet will be laminated so you won\'t be able to get to it. Wrap the tape to the other side to allow you to access the electrical contacts after the panel is laminated. Place a line of double tape on both sides of the copper tape and peel off the protective backing. During lamination, this tape will fix solettes in the appropriate position. No matter which piece of copper tape you put your first solette on, it will be the front touch of your panel. Choose carefully and you may want to remind yourself later ( Although you can also look at solettes and find out the answer) Place solette in the center of the pet and overlap the copper tape with a few millimeters. Solettes as much as possible-- They are fragile and easy to crack. Press solette on the double recording and then she\'s gone. One by one, add all the remaining solettes. Double-clicking the tape will keep the solettes permanently, so make sure you like the way the solette looks before you press it on the tape. If you put solette wrong, it\'s not the end of the world. It may break, but try to twist it instead of stripping it out of the tape. It does break down, just pull the pieces out of the tape and put a new one. When you get to the last solette, take the time to see what it\'s doing, electricity. The bottom of the last solette touches the previous solette and copper band at the same time. This is an interesting trick, which we call \"fake solette --- We just use the conductive bottom of solette like a wire to connect the top of the previous solette to the copper tape on the back. Once you \'ve done all the solettes, go back to your chair and take a deep breath. Enjoy this moment In a minute you will be the proud owner of a finished solar panel and everything will change. Now is a good time to preheat the laminating machine. Make a laminated sandwich first. Take an EVA on top of solettes, then take another pet on top, rough side -- Based on EVA. Your baby is ready for hot rolls! Double tape should put everything in place, but again, be gentle with the unlaminated panel. Pick it up and feed one end into the laminating machine. It is important to laminate the panel along the length of the panel-- Feeding it in a different way may break your solettes. Cool the drawings of the solar buddy to you, clarify. The press will pick it up and start pulling it over. On the other side of the laminating machine you will see a beautiful panel coming out of the air pupal like dhota. You might notice that it looks like a Terminator when my laminating machine is put into the molten steel. You don\'t have to look like this. I often patch my laminating machine so that I have opened the lid and no longer re-open the lid, but you just have to use a normal, abnormalthe- Shelf layer press, it will work very well. Most desktop laminating machines run too cold and too fast to completely melt the panels. The easiest way to deal with this is to pass the panel through the laminating machine several times and melt more each time. This is a dirt- The easy way, it can make the panel work fine, but it will leave small bubbles in the panel that EVA does not completely melt. The best way I found -- Looking for the panel is to slow down by stopping the laminating machine every 10mm or so, waiting for the panel to melt for a few seconds, and then pushing forward 10mm. This allows the panel to spend more time under the hot roller, melting the plastic more thoroughly, and then the roller of the laminating machine can completely squeeze out any bubbles in the plastic, thus completely clear and the panel smooth. When you feed the panel into the laminating machine, you may make your plastic layer slightly misaligned. That\'s fine. Once the panel is laminated, you can trim any rough edges with scissors and get a clean edge. Okay, you go. There is nothing to do other than testing. I made a nine-solette panel. One of the solettes is a fake solette and does not add voltage to the panel, but the other solettes adds a half volt voltage at the maximum power point, so I should see 4 volts at the maximum power point. I plugged it into our small solar test bed and voila, the panel reached out 208 mA at 3. Maximum power point 7 V, or. 75W. Good, no, cold solar guy? Well, I think so. Do something cool. Show everyone your opinion in the comments! If you think it\'s neat then my friend Sean and I have been doing it and we are busy making cute little machines that make solar panels. Read more about our project, our story, get materials for your own DIY solar project and join the microsolar lovefest at the solar wallet factory.