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sodium acetate body warmer
by：Top-In
2020-08-07
Have you ever been to a football match? Frozen your ass?
In the game you happen to throw away those little charcoal.
You take it out, open it, shake it out and try to get it to generate some heat.
Usually, shaking the bag will keep you warmer than a small bag.
The last football game I played was 30 degrees Fahrenheit, so I took one of my body warmers with me and it generated 5 hours of heat!
If you are looking for a better solution in those cold football matches to help you keep warm (
Or other outdoor activities)
This is the instructions for you.
What I found for the body warmer. 1.
Cold football match2. Cold campouts. 3.
My wife took them to bed. 4.
Sustained local heat for injuries or sore muscles.
The cold car goes back and forth to work6. ect.
There are many reasons why I do this Instructure (
Explain in the following steps)
But my main reason is that I can\'t find any instructions anywhere else on how to make sodium acetate hand warmer from start to finish.
I hope others can share my passion and help me in ways that I want to make these heaters better.
In the end, I feel that the best way to get more ideas flowing on this issue is to put together a description of how to make a decent sodium acetate body warm.
If you \'d rather see how to make it than watch it, check out this youtube video. (
Note: I do not include instructions on how to make the insulation package).
There are several reasons for making this structure. 1.
I think the sodium acetate hand warmer is awesome and everyone should have one.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of directions to show you how to make sodium acetate, but none of these places show you how to make a decent hand warmer from sodium acetate solution
These instructions lack the material for how to make a clicker/activator, the proper stability of the solution, and for a sturdy and durable bag. 2.
I would like to have a better understanding of how the tap/activator works so that I may make a better choice.
I \'ve heard vague advice on how it works, but haven\'t read a good article so far on exactly how it works. 3.
I would like others to make these hand warmers and give me advice on how to improve this design.
For example, my bag uses vinyl, but vinyl becomes brittle at low temperatures.
One year in February, I was camping with the Boy Scouts when the temperature was below 0f.
After we ran out of bags in the morning, I was collecting all the heaters and putting them in my luggage bag.
I happened to throw a heater into the bag and it broke the plastic on the three heaters. 4.
Ideas and examples of better accessories.
Over the past few years, I have made some accessories for the hand warmer.
One of the ones I included in this manual is the insulation package.
I want a way to keep the heat shield on my chest without hugging it.
I want a way to easily put the hand warmer in my gloves. 5.
The biggest drawback of sodium acetate hand warmer (
Especially big heaters)
It\'s how long they need to cook to charge them.
I would like new ideas on how to re-heat/charge the bag.
I tried heating the bag with 300 degrees of oil (
Until the bag cracked a seam)
I try to put a metal plate in the bag and heat it up with an induction cooker.
I had some minor success with the cooker, but it turned out to be difficult and painful in the end (
I melted a lot of bags, rusty metal plates and fought with induction cooker until I gave up.
Another idea I haven\'t tried yet is to integrate the internal heating elements. The Activator (Clicker)
What makes it possible to warm the body in the first place.
The catalyst begins the crystalline process, releasing the stored heat.
It is easy to start the crystal process using seed crystals, but it is not possible to provide seed crystals in sealed bags.
I have searched the web for the commercial version of these discs but it is hard to find.
I found them a few times and I had to buy them in large quantities (1000 at a time).
I did it myself because the cost was too high.
The activator is just a spring steel with a few slit in it.
There are a few different places where you can get spring steel easily/cheaply.
The two I found easy to buy were a slap and a tape measure.
I tried it all and found this slap bracelet better.
The steel in the tape measure is fragile and will wear out soon.
The steel in the Slap bracelet is thicker and lasts for several years in the bag.
You should be able to find slap bracelets at most party stores or Walmart
It can be bought in less than a dollar.
Supplies needed to make the activator. 1. Slap Bracelet2. De-Solv-it (
Or other solvents)3. Scissors4. Cardboard5. Razor knife6.
HammerStart starts by removing the fabric/plastic coating on the slap bracelet.
I finished this on my fabric bracelet with razor and nail.
I cut the center of the bracelet vertically with a razor.
Once cut, I start at one end and remove the fabric at the top of one end with my nails.
Once I took the fabric off one end, I was able to pull hard on the fabric to the other end and it fell off from a large piece.
You can see a better description in my video if you need it.
Once the coating is removed, glue residue is left behind. Use the de-solv-
It removes residue.
Wash off de-solv-It\'s with glue.
This should give you a sparkling metal bracelet.
Now take the scissors down and cut a square piece of metal.
Take down the square you cut off and surround the corners with scissors.
Finally, check if there are sharp points on your metal and cut them off.
You are bypassing the corner and cutting off the point so that your metal disc will not pierce your bag.
Put your round metal plate on a few sheets of cardboard.
The cardboard provides a soft background and allows the razor to penetrate the metal.
Be extra cautious (
So you don\'t cut it yourself.
Pick up your razor and punch two parallel slit on the disc with a lot of pressure.
The direction of these slit should be fine.
When clicking on the disc, you try to get these slit to grind/touch each other.
Now the metal around the slit is bent outward and needs to be bent backward.
Place the disk on a hard object and flatten it with a hammer. And voila!
We have our own activators.
Let\'s make bags.
I have tried several different types of bag material.
Some include zippers
Lock the freezer bag, vinyl, 6 million painter waterproof cloth, and one I don\'t remember the name. The zip-
The lock didn\'t last long until it was punctured, the paint\'s tarps melted, and the other plastic worked fine, but it seemed very easy to make very small holes. (
If you have the smallest hole in your bag, sodium acetate does not exist in the form of a solution).
The best plastic I \'ve found so far is thick vinyl from WalmartMart (
Or fabric shop).
Vinyl is cheap, available, and much thicker than other plastics I \'ve tried.
Although vinyl has its advantages, it has a major drawback.
It will become brittle at very cold temperatures.
After using it at a temperature below 0, I broke a few packs.
I would like to try other types of packages for this reason.
Some of the plastic types I want to try are 1.
Plastic for hydration of water bags (Camelbak).
The problem is I don\'t know where to buy this plastic. 2. Silicone bags.
I don\'t know how to seal this bag.
I \'d love to hear if you have any insight into better plastic bags.
That\'s enough. Let\'s make the bag. Tools1. Scissors2. Sealer3.
Permanent Mark 4. Flat iron (
Replacement sealing machine)Supplies1. Clear Vinyl2.
Take down your vinyl material and fold it in half.
Take your scissors and cut out a square from the two halves of vinyl at the same time.
Trim the edges of vinyl and make yourself a nice rectangular bag.
Depending on how much sodium acetate you have, you will decide how large bags you should make.
My bag is 10 1/2 \"by 8\" and next put your favorite sport logo or design inside the bag (
That\'s BYU for me).
If you apply color to the outside of the bag, when the bag is hot, these colors ooze and stain your counter (
Even if you color it with a permanent mark).
Design for drawing, tracking, or doodling the inside of the bag with permanent marks.
Don\'t forget that you need to read your letter because you draw in it. (
It\'s a good idea to test to make sure your mark is really permanent.
Draw on a small piece of vinyl with your permanent mark and then run underwater to make sure it doesn\'t fall off.
I have a mark saying it is permanent when I put sodium acetate in it.
Now bring your sealer and seal all four edges of the bag.
For my heat sealing machine, I set the heat time of thick vinyl to 9 seconds.
You must try to find the right time for your vinyl and sealant.
After 9 seconds I let the vinyl cool and then try to remove it from the sealer and if you don\'t let it cool you will stick out your seam and it will create a weakness in your bag.
Note: You can test if you have a good seal by trying to pull the seam apart.
If it\'s separated, you\'re not doing it long enough.
It should be torn before it is separated.
Finally, cut a corner of your bag that is large enough to hold your metal disc and insert it into your disc.
I did this to seal less area when I added hot sodium acetate to the bag.
If you do not have a sealer, I have successfully sealed the bag with an iron.
If you decide to try a flat iron instead of a seal, don\'t let me take care of it first if the process destroys it.
2nd, or permission to use (
May be expensive)
Or buy a cheap one from Walmart.
3rd. Be careful. Those irons are hot.
I don\'t take any responsibility.
It\'s hard to tell how hot the iron is in order to melt the vinyl together.
Try it out and come up with the right heat/time/pressure for yourself. (
As mentioned above, try to take apart the two pieces you have sealed.
It\'s not good enough if it\'s separated.
You want to tear it off before it\'s separated).
Once you \'ve made your bag, I suggest you fill it with water, seal it, and stand on it to make sure your seal will stand the test of time.
If the water passes, cut the corner and let the water out.
Now to sodium acetate solution.
You can mix vinegar and baking soda in a proper proportion to make sodium acetate, or you can buy it online or in a chemical store.
I used to mix my own stuff together and it worked great, but it took a long time to make the house stink.
It will take a long time to make enough sodium acetate to fill a large bag.
Sodium acetate has a lot of sources, like where I bought it here -----
It\'s local to me.
I also saw it on ebay for a pretty good price.
You want to buy sodium acetate without water.
When we mix with water, we are making sodium acetate trihydrate. Tools1. Pot2. Measuring Cup3.
Tools for the pool block (
I\'m using a meatloaf)Supplies1.
Sodium acetate.
The ratio of water to sodium acetate is about 1 glass of water and 1 1/4 cup of sodium acetate.
For my larger bag, I used 2 cups of water to about 1/2 cups of sodium acetate.
So add your water to the pan and cook it.
Then add your sodium acetate.
Stir and mash the hard pieces until everything is gone.
At this point, your solution should be close to boiling, and there should be an ultra-thin crystal layer at the top of the solution.
You want your solution to be where this layer appears.
You can do this by adding more water, boiling water, or adding more sodium acetate.
If you make the solution too thin, then the thermal reaction will not be so strong.
So it will still crystallize and get hot, but it will not get hot or it will last for a long time.
If you make the solution too thick, then your solution will look like a gel when it cools.
When the solution is too thick, it also has a tendency to form interesting crystals in the solution.
These two side effects can actually be very cool, and it doesn\'t seem to change the thermal reaction.
I added this step for those who are impatient and want to see the results now! ! !
We will give you the results now.
To put it simply, we will create a temporary hand warmer. Tools1. Measuring Cup2.
A bowl full of ice.
Hot sodium acetate solution 2. Freezer Zip-Lock bag3.
Click/activate to open your ziplock package and insert your click/activator.
Take the measuring cup and put some sodium acetate solution in the bag.
Seal the bag and put it in ice water.
Leave it there until it cools down.
Once it\'s cool, take out the bag and try your click. INSTANT HEAT. USUALLY.
Sometimes clickers work harder to activate your solution.
Click, twist, and/or bend your catalyst if needed until you react.
Finally, we are ready to put the solution in the bag. Tools1. Funnel2.
A container for pouring sodium acetate. 3.
Leather gloves 4. Sealer5.
Wet paper towels (or rag)Supplies1.
Hot sodium acetate.
Inside there is a vinyl bag for edge cutting and tap/activator. 3. Food Coloring (optional)
Statement: While I will not consider making it very dangerous to warm up my body, if there is a dangerous part, that is it.
The solution is hot and will burn you.
If you get the solution, it will initially burn because of heat, but it will also crystallize and continue to burn.
Just be ready to run into your sink and wash it off if you happen to put sodium acetate on yourself.
Also, the bag and funnel get very hot when you pour the solution into the bag.
I recommend using gloves in this section.
Step 1, transfer the solution from the pan to something that is easier to pour.
This step is not necessary, but I find that the pot tends to drop the solution off the bottom of the pot instead of dripping into the funnel.
Step 2, insert the funnel into your vinyl bag.
Hold the funnel in the bag with your finger.
Step 3, pour the solution into the bag along the funnel.
Be careful not to fill the bag, which makes it very difficult to seal the bag.
From 1/2 to 3/4, I won\'t fill in more.
Take out the funnel.
Step 4, if you want to change the color of sodium acetate, it\'s time to change it.
Add some food coloring to the bag.
First try the water and it might help to know what color you want to create.
Step 5, any sodium acetate in the final seam area (
Crystal or not)
Will prevent a good seal.
When you seal the bag, the water evaporates and sodium acetate crystallizes in the seam.
I wipe the sealing area with a wet paper towel to prevent any problems.
Just wet the paper towel and wipe the inside of the bag at the seams.
Be sure to do a good job of cleaning the inside of the seam.
Step 6, drain the excess air from the bag (
Make sure you don\'t get sodium acetate in the seam area, just a little air)
Seal up the last seam
That\'s it. Your bag is finished.
You can put your bag in cold water so you can cool it down and try it.
Usually, after you initially Seal the bag, the solution will crystallize, and you have to heat the bag in boiling water to melt all the crystals before testing.
To heat or reactivate your body, all you have to do is cook it.
Basically, all you have to do is melt the crystal.
Sodium acetate of three water (
What do I do with waterless sodium acetate and water)
Melt at 58 °c or 136 FTools1.
A pot of boiled water. Strainer3.
Fill your pot with water and heat it up.
Add some kind of barrier to the pot (
Filter or Rag).
The barrier is to prevent vinyl from sticking to the bottom of the pan and getting too hot and melted.
Next, put your bag in the water, cover it with a lid and let it cook for a while.
You need to make it boil where you can see any crystal (
Even small).
Finally, once all this is resolved, take it out with your pliers and let it cool.
You can help speed up the melting process by taking out the bag from the pan and mixing the solution in the bag.
This helps to distribute the heat inside the bag.
During the boiling process, you can test the solution in the bag, by taking the bag out of the water and lifting it up in a corner to see if it melts completely.
Then cool the corner of the bag you\'re holding with ice cubes.
If the solution crystallizes in that corner, then it is not ready to be taken out.
Usually, the heater cools quickly and only gives 30-
45 minutes hot.
To help the body warm up, keep the heat as long as possible and slow down the heat loss, I made a bag to put the body warm into it.
Using this insulated bag, heating the body heater before activating the body, I got 5 hours of available heat from the body heater. Tools1. Razor Knife2. Scissors3.
Permanentmarker4.
1. Hot glueMylar Bag (
You can replace it with aluminum foil tape, but it will take longer).
I bought a food storage center near my house for a very cheap price. 2.
Padded envelope (
Flexible packaging foam is a good choice)3. Duct Tape (
Your favorite color)4.
Velcro peel off and seal your mylar bag so that it is longer than the padded envelope, wide enough to hardly fit your padded envelope.
Tuck your envelope into your Merah bag.
Cut the top of the mylar bag so that it is 1 inch longer than the padded envelope inserted.
Now cut off the side of the top 1 inch so that it creates a flap over the top of the mylar package, which you can fold up and close.
Draw a rather large square on one side of the mylar bag.
This will be the window that allows the heat to escape (
Keep you warm).
Cut out the square with a razor.
Be careful not to cut too deep, you just want to go through one side of the padded envelope.
Now attach your tape and tape to the inside of the window.
This will prevent the mai la bag and the envelope from being torn.
The edges of Mylar bags are somewhat stiff and sharp, so cover all the edges of mylar bags with tape.
Finally, four velcro were cut.
Glue two of them hot outside the flap of the bag.
Now, glue the other two pieces of tape to the front of the bag with heat, so you can fold the flap because velcro holds the flap. Thats it!
Now you have a heater and a bag to keep it warm for a longer period of time.
Last but not least, I have collected some tips along the way. 1.
If you heat the bag before using it, it will keep it hot for a longer period of time. 2.
If you heat your bag and put it in an insulated bag, it will be hotter.
I went to a BYU football game the other day and the temperature outside was 30 degrees F.
Before I went to the competition, I cooked my body and made it hot before I left.
So I set off at 7: 00 in the afternoon for the competition.
During the game I was friendly, tied together and pressed the body warmth in my coat to my chest.
The weather is nice and warm.
I ended up coming home from the game around 12: 15 a. m. and the body was still warm and hot! ! !
It\'s not just warm, it\'s hot!
This is the available heat for 5 hours.
That\'s what I\'m talking about! ! !
Throughout the game, I was warm except for half the time my toes were a bit cold.
By the end of the third quarter, my toes were cold.
I happen to have another body warmer on me, so I take it out, activate it and put it on my shoes.
It worked a bit, so I took my feet out of my shoes and put the heater directly on it.
It feels good.
After 5 minutes, the toes are no longer cold. 3.
If no matter how long you heat, your body warmer will not stay in solution, it shows that there is a hole in your bag.
Even the smallest hole causes the crystal to occur when the sodium acetate solution is cooled.
If you need more instructions, here is the youtube video I made.
In the game you happen to throw away those little charcoal.
You take it out, open it, shake it out and try to get it to generate some heat.
Usually, shaking the bag will keep you warmer than a small bag.
The last football game I played was 30 degrees Fahrenheit, so I took one of my body warmers with me and it generated 5 hours of heat!
If you are looking for a better solution in those cold football matches to help you keep warm (
Or other outdoor activities)
This is the instructions for you.
What I found for the body warmer. 1.
Cold football match2. Cold campouts. 3.
My wife took them to bed. 4.
Sustained local heat for injuries or sore muscles.
The cold car goes back and forth to work6. ect.
There are many reasons why I do this Instructure (
Explain in the following steps)
But my main reason is that I can\'t find any instructions anywhere else on how to make sodium acetate hand warmer from start to finish.
I hope others can share my passion and help me in ways that I want to make these heaters better.
In the end, I feel that the best way to get more ideas flowing on this issue is to put together a description of how to make a decent sodium acetate body warm.
If you \'d rather see how to make it than watch it, check out this youtube video. (
Note: I do not include instructions on how to make the insulation package).
There are several reasons for making this structure. 1.
I think the sodium acetate hand warmer is awesome and everyone should have one.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of directions to show you how to make sodium acetate, but none of these places show you how to make a decent hand warmer from sodium acetate solution
These instructions lack the material for how to make a clicker/activator, the proper stability of the solution, and for a sturdy and durable bag. 2.
I would like to have a better understanding of how the tap/activator works so that I may make a better choice.
I \'ve heard vague advice on how it works, but haven\'t read a good article so far on exactly how it works. 3.
I would like others to make these hand warmers and give me advice on how to improve this design.
For example, my bag uses vinyl, but vinyl becomes brittle at low temperatures.
One year in February, I was camping with the Boy Scouts when the temperature was below 0f.
After we ran out of bags in the morning, I was collecting all the heaters and putting them in my luggage bag.
I happened to throw a heater into the bag and it broke the plastic on the three heaters. 4.
Ideas and examples of better accessories.
Over the past few years, I have made some accessories for the hand warmer.
One of the ones I included in this manual is the insulation package.
I want a way to keep the heat shield on my chest without hugging it.
I want a way to easily put the hand warmer in my gloves. 5.
The biggest drawback of sodium acetate hand warmer (
Especially big heaters)
It\'s how long they need to cook to charge them.
I would like new ideas on how to re-heat/charge the bag.
I tried heating the bag with 300 degrees of oil (
Until the bag cracked a seam)
I try to put a metal plate in the bag and heat it up with an induction cooker.
I had some minor success with the cooker, but it turned out to be difficult and painful in the end (
I melted a lot of bags, rusty metal plates and fought with induction cooker until I gave up.
Another idea I haven\'t tried yet is to integrate the internal heating elements. The Activator (Clicker)
What makes it possible to warm the body in the first place.
The catalyst begins the crystalline process, releasing the stored heat.
It is easy to start the crystal process using seed crystals, but it is not possible to provide seed crystals in sealed bags.
I have searched the web for the commercial version of these discs but it is hard to find.
I found them a few times and I had to buy them in large quantities (1000 at a time).
I did it myself because the cost was too high.
The activator is just a spring steel with a few slit in it.
There are a few different places where you can get spring steel easily/cheaply.
The two I found easy to buy were a slap and a tape measure.
I tried it all and found this slap bracelet better.
The steel in the tape measure is fragile and will wear out soon.
The steel in the Slap bracelet is thicker and lasts for several years in the bag.
You should be able to find slap bracelets at most party stores or Walmart
It can be bought in less than a dollar.
Supplies needed to make the activator. 1. Slap Bracelet2. De-Solv-it (
Or other solvents)3. Scissors4. Cardboard5. Razor knife6.
HammerStart starts by removing the fabric/plastic coating on the slap bracelet.
I finished this on my fabric bracelet with razor and nail.
I cut the center of the bracelet vertically with a razor.
Once cut, I start at one end and remove the fabric at the top of one end with my nails.
Once I took the fabric off one end, I was able to pull hard on the fabric to the other end and it fell off from a large piece.
You can see a better description in my video if you need it.
Once the coating is removed, glue residue is left behind. Use the de-solv-
It removes residue.
Wash off de-solv-It\'s with glue.
This should give you a sparkling metal bracelet.
Now take the scissors down and cut a square piece of metal.
Take down the square you cut off and surround the corners with scissors.
Finally, check if there are sharp points on your metal and cut them off.
You are bypassing the corner and cutting off the point so that your metal disc will not pierce your bag.
Put your round metal plate on a few sheets of cardboard.
The cardboard provides a soft background and allows the razor to penetrate the metal.
Be extra cautious (
So you don\'t cut it yourself.
Pick up your razor and punch two parallel slit on the disc with a lot of pressure.
The direction of these slit should be fine.
When clicking on the disc, you try to get these slit to grind/touch each other.
Now the metal around the slit is bent outward and needs to be bent backward.
Place the disk on a hard object and flatten it with a hammer. And voila!
We have our own activators.
Let\'s make bags.
I have tried several different types of bag material.
Some include zippers
Lock the freezer bag, vinyl, 6 million painter waterproof cloth, and one I don\'t remember the name. The zip-
The lock didn\'t last long until it was punctured, the paint\'s tarps melted, and the other plastic worked fine, but it seemed very easy to make very small holes. (
If you have the smallest hole in your bag, sodium acetate does not exist in the form of a solution).
The best plastic I \'ve found so far is thick vinyl from WalmartMart (
Or fabric shop).
Vinyl is cheap, available, and much thicker than other plastics I \'ve tried.
Although vinyl has its advantages, it has a major drawback.
It will become brittle at very cold temperatures.
After using it at a temperature below 0, I broke a few packs.
I would like to try other types of packages for this reason.
Some of the plastic types I want to try are 1.
Plastic for hydration of water bags (Camelbak).
The problem is I don\'t know where to buy this plastic. 2. Silicone bags.
I don\'t know how to seal this bag.
I \'d love to hear if you have any insight into better plastic bags.
That\'s enough. Let\'s make the bag. Tools1. Scissors2. Sealer3.
Permanent Mark 4. Flat iron (
Replacement sealing machine)Supplies1. Clear Vinyl2.
Take down your vinyl material and fold it in half.
Take your scissors and cut out a square from the two halves of vinyl at the same time.
Trim the edges of vinyl and make yourself a nice rectangular bag.
Depending on how much sodium acetate you have, you will decide how large bags you should make.
My bag is 10 1/2 \"by 8\" and next put your favorite sport logo or design inside the bag (
That\'s BYU for me).
If you apply color to the outside of the bag, when the bag is hot, these colors ooze and stain your counter (
Even if you color it with a permanent mark).
Design for drawing, tracking, or doodling the inside of the bag with permanent marks.
Don\'t forget that you need to read your letter because you draw in it. (
It\'s a good idea to test to make sure your mark is really permanent.
Draw on a small piece of vinyl with your permanent mark and then run underwater to make sure it doesn\'t fall off.
I have a mark saying it is permanent when I put sodium acetate in it.
Now bring your sealer and seal all four edges of the bag.
For my heat sealing machine, I set the heat time of thick vinyl to 9 seconds.
You must try to find the right time for your vinyl and sealant.
After 9 seconds I let the vinyl cool and then try to remove it from the sealer and if you don\'t let it cool you will stick out your seam and it will create a weakness in your bag.
Note: You can test if you have a good seal by trying to pull the seam apart.
If it\'s separated, you\'re not doing it long enough.
It should be torn before it is separated.
Finally, cut a corner of your bag that is large enough to hold your metal disc and insert it into your disc.
I did this to seal less area when I added hot sodium acetate to the bag.
If you do not have a sealer, I have successfully sealed the bag with an iron.
If you decide to try a flat iron instead of a seal, don\'t let me take care of it first if the process destroys it.
2nd, or permission to use (
May be expensive)
Or buy a cheap one from Walmart.
3rd. Be careful. Those irons are hot.
I don\'t take any responsibility.
It\'s hard to tell how hot the iron is in order to melt the vinyl together.
Try it out and come up with the right heat/time/pressure for yourself. (
As mentioned above, try to take apart the two pieces you have sealed.
It\'s not good enough if it\'s separated.
You want to tear it off before it\'s separated).
Once you \'ve made your bag, I suggest you fill it with water, seal it, and stand on it to make sure your seal will stand the test of time.
If the water passes, cut the corner and let the water out.
Now to sodium acetate solution.
You can mix vinegar and baking soda in a proper proportion to make sodium acetate, or you can buy it online or in a chemical store.
I used to mix my own stuff together and it worked great, but it took a long time to make the house stink.
It will take a long time to make enough sodium acetate to fill a large bag.
Sodium acetate has a lot of sources, like where I bought it here -----
It\'s local to me.
I also saw it on ebay for a pretty good price.
You want to buy sodium acetate without water.
When we mix with water, we are making sodium acetate trihydrate. Tools1. Pot2. Measuring Cup3.
Tools for the pool block (
I\'m using a meatloaf)Supplies1.
Sodium acetate.
The ratio of water to sodium acetate is about 1 glass of water and 1 1/4 cup of sodium acetate.
For my larger bag, I used 2 cups of water to about 1/2 cups of sodium acetate.
So add your water to the pan and cook it.
Then add your sodium acetate.
Stir and mash the hard pieces until everything is gone.
At this point, your solution should be close to boiling, and there should be an ultra-thin crystal layer at the top of the solution.
You want your solution to be where this layer appears.
You can do this by adding more water, boiling water, or adding more sodium acetate.
If you make the solution too thin, then the thermal reaction will not be so strong.
So it will still crystallize and get hot, but it will not get hot or it will last for a long time.
If you make the solution too thick, then your solution will look like a gel when it cools.
When the solution is too thick, it also has a tendency to form interesting crystals in the solution.
These two side effects can actually be very cool, and it doesn\'t seem to change the thermal reaction.
I added this step for those who are impatient and want to see the results now! ! !
We will give you the results now.
To put it simply, we will create a temporary hand warmer. Tools1. Measuring Cup2.
A bowl full of ice.
Hot sodium acetate solution 2. Freezer Zip-Lock bag3.
Click/activate to open your ziplock package and insert your click/activator.
Take the measuring cup and put some sodium acetate solution in the bag.
Seal the bag and put it in ice water.
Leave it there until it cools down.
Once it\'s cool, take out the bag and try your click. INSTANT HEAT. USUALLY.
Sometimes clickers work harder to activate your solution.
Click, twist, and/or bend your catalyst if needed until you react.
Finally, we are ready to put the solution in the bag. Tools1. Funnel2.
A container for pouring sodium acetate. 3.
Leather gloves 4. Sealer5.
Wet paper towels (or rag)Supplies1.
Hot sodium acetate.
Inside there is a vinyl bag for edge cutting and tap/activator. 3. Food Coloring (optional)
Statement: While I will not consider making it very dangerous to warm up my body, if there is a dangerous part, that is it.
The solution is hot and will burn you.
If you get the solution, it will initially burn because of heat, but it will also crystallize and continue to burn.
Just be ready to run into your sink and wash it off if you happen to put sodium acetate on yourself.
Also, the bag and funnel get very hot when you pour the solution into the bag.
I recommend using gloves in this section.
Step 1, transfer the solution from the pan to something that is easier to pour.
This step is not necessary, but I find that the pot tends to drop the solution off the bottom of the pot instead of dripping into the funnel.
Step 2, insert the funnel into your vinyl bag.
Hold the funnel in the bag with your finger.
Step 3, pour the solution into the bag along the funnel.
Be careful not to fill the bag, which makes it very difficult to seal the bag.
From 1/2 to 3/4, I won\'t fill in more.
Take out the funnel.
Step 4, if you want to change the color of sodium acetate, it\'s time to change it.
Add some food coloring to the bag.
First try the water and it might help to know what color you want to create.
Step 5, any sodium acetate in the final seam area (
Crystal or not)
Will prevent a good seal.
When you seal the bag, the water evaporates and sodium acetate crystallizes in the seam.
I wipe the sealing area with a wet paper towel to prevent any problems.
Just wet the paper towel and wipe the inside of the bag at the seams.
Be sure to do a good job of cleaning the inside of the seam.
Step 6, drain the excess air from the bag (
Make sure you don\'t get sodium acetate in the seam area, just a little air)
Seal up the last seam
That\'s it. Your bag is finished.
You can put your bag in cold water so you can cool it down and try it.
Usually, after you initially Seal the bag, the solution will crystallize, and you have to heat the bag in boiling water to melt all the crystals before testing.
To heat or reactivate your body, all you have to do is cook it.
Basically, all you have to do is melt the crystal.
Sodium acetate of three water (
What do I do with waterless sodium acetate and water)
Melt at 58 °c or 136 FTools1.
A pot of boiled water. Strainer3.
Fill your pot with water and heat it up.
Add some kind of barrier to the pot (
Filter or Rag).
The barrier is to prevent vinyl from sticking to the bottom of the pan and getting too hot and melted.
Next, put your bag in the water, cover it with a lid and let it cook for a while.
You need to make it boil where you can see any crystal (
Even small).
Finally, once all this is resolved, take it out with your pliers and let it cool.
You can help speed up the melting process by taking out the bag from the pan and mixing the solution in the bag.
This helps to distribute the heat inside the bag.
During the boiling process, you can test the solution in the bag, by taking the bag out of the water and lifting it up in a corner to see if it melts completely.
Then cool the corner of the bag you\'re holding with ice cubes.
If the solution crystallizes in that corner, then it is not ready to be taken out.
Usually, the heater cools quickly and only gives 30-
45 minutes hot.
To help the body warm up, keep the heat as long as possible and slow down the heat loss, I made a bag to put the body warm into it.
Using this insulated bag, heating the body heater before activating the body, I got 5 hours of available heat from the body heater. Tools1. Razor Knife2. Scissors3.
Permanentmarker4.
1. Hot glueMylar Bag (
You can replace it with aluminum foil tape, but it will take longer).
I bought a food storage center near my house for a very cheap price. 2.
Padded envelope (
Flexible packaging foam is a good choice)3. Duct Tape (
Your favorite color)4.
Velcro peel off and seal your mylar bag so that it is longer than the padded envelope, wide enough to hardly fit your padded envelope.
Tuck your envelope into your Merah bag.
Cut the top of the mylar bag so that it is 1 inch longer than the padded envelope inserted.
Now cut off the side of the top 1 inch so that it creates a flap over the top of the mylar package, which you can fold up and close.
Draw a rather large square on one side of the mylar bag.
This will be the window that allows the heat to escape (
Keep you warm).
Cut out the square with a razor.
Be careful not to cut too deep, you just want to go through one side of the padded envelope.
Now attach your tape and tape to the inside of the window.
This will prevent the mai la bag and the envelope from being torn.
The edges of Mylar bags are somewhat stiff and sharp, so cover all the edges of mylar bags with tape.
Finally, four velcro were cut.
Glue two of them hot outside the flap of the bag.
Now, glue the other two pieces of tape to the front of the bag with heat, so you can fold the flap because velcro holds the flap. Thats it!
Now you have a heater and a bag to keep it warm for a longer period of time.
Last but not least, I have collected some tips along the way. 1.
If you heat the bag before using it, it will keep it hot for a longer period of time. 2.
If you heat your bag and put it in an insulated bag, it will be hotter.
I went to a BYU football game the other day and the temperature outside was 30 degrees F.
Before I went to the competition, I cooked my body and made it hot before I left.
So I set off at 7: 00 in the afternoon for the competition.
During the game I was friendly, tied together and pressed the body warmth in my coat to my chest.
The weather is nice and warm.
I ended up coming home from the game around 12: 15 a. m. and the body was still warm and hot! ! !
It\'s not just warm, it\'s hot!
This is the available heat for 5 hours.
That\'s what I\'m talking about! ! !
Throughout the game, I was warm except for half the time my toes were a bit cold.
By the end of the third quarter, my toes were cold.
I happen to have another body warmer on me, so I take it out, activate it and put it on my shoes.
It worked a bit, so I took my feet out of my shoes and put the heater directly on it.
It feels good.
After 5 minutes, the toes are no longer cold. 3.
If no matter how long you heat, your body warmer will not stay in solution, it shows that there is a hole in your bag.
Even the smallest hole causes the crystal to occur when the sodium acetate solution is cooled.
If you need more instructions, here is the youtube video I made.
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