diy littlebits

Let\'s make small DIY parts!
For the original circuit, access littleBits.
Cc * added since its first release: light trigger * I changed the original circuit based on the availability of the part and my own preferences and abilities.
I volunteered to join the Fresh Air Fund and I hope I can learn enough to provide a free afternoon workshop for kids 45 minutes drive north of New York this summer.
The connection method I\'m currently using between bits includes 3 header pins on the left and right side as well as female to female jumpers.
There is no Kanban mechanism to prevent mistakes, so users must be careful when connecting DIY bits.
One idea is to use alternating male and female pins on the alternating side and use male to female color-coded jumpers (
Red = VCC, green = Signal, black = GND).
If you decide to use male and female alternating pins and jumpers, then the male head pin should be on the left side of the position;
This is to prevent the live male jumper hanging from crossing each other and generating a short circuit.
Parts: if not stated in each step, you will need welding, hot glue, 22 gauge stranded insulated wires, perfboard, male (
Maybe you like women too)
Heat Shrink tube, jumper, pin (
The electronic tape is ugly but enough)
, And how to label your DIY parts.
Many bits require op amp chips, which can become expensive if you buy them separately from the store.
I would recommend buying more chips from www. digikey. com.
The digital key Part Number of the LM741 op amp chip is lm74 1 cnns/NOPB-ND ;
At the time of publication, I bought the chip for $0. 70.
Edit: I learned from the electrical engineer that it is better to use the trackto-
Railway op amps such as TLV2462 provided by Adafruit-
Please adjust the pin number according to the White Paper of the op amp you are using.
For TAG bits, I use 6 plastic in the recycle bin (
Also sold through www as shrink film. digikey. com.
The required tools include stripping machine, welding gun, assistant, needle nose plyers, hot glue gun and method of cutting perfboard (
I rate it with a sharp knife and break it on the straight side ruler, but some prefer to use dremel).
The most important tool is a good book;
I recommend timer, op amp and photoelectric circuit and project for Forrest M
The first thing we need is power! ! !
The original \"p1 power\" circuit requires a power regulator that is not sold in a radio cabin, so I bought the 5 v regulator most commonly used by enthusiasts --the LM7805. Parts list: 1)9V battery 2)
9 v battery card buckle with red and black wires 3)
Perf plates cut to 9x12 full holes 4)LM7805 5)Capacitors: 0.
1 uF ceramic plate (code 104), 1. 0uF (
Maybe it\'s a soaked ta)
10 uF electrolysis. . .
Pay attention to polarity and substitution where risk allows. 6)
Resistance: 1 330 Ohm 7)
1 small red LED 8)
Sliding switch
A throw switch is enough.
Head pin 10)
Jumper process: 1)
Circuit board and test for V and S output 5 v2)
Arranged in perfboard and welding. 3)
Test V and S output 5 v. 4)
Any weak connection, including the output pin to the perfboard.
I stuck it on a blue 4x6 Lego board because power is coded blue with little bits. 5)Great job!
You can use this bit to power up any item that needs 5 v. Parts list: 1)
Perf plates cut to 9x12 full holes 2)
LED: three colors (5mm)red/blue/green)-
Radio shed part 2760028 3)
Resistance: 3x330 ohms (
220 ohms is enough.
Test it on the bread board first)
, 3 x Cds photocells (photoresistors)-
Radio shed part 276-1657.
I have used 2 large photo stop agents in this package for red and blue, for Green. 4)LM741 op amp -
Radio shed part 276-
0007, Digikey part lm74 1cnns/NOPB-ND . . .
The output pin on 741 is different from LV321, which is used in the original small bit.
Cc schematic diagram of this bit.
Please pay attention to the difference! 5)
Connection pin (
3 on the left and 3 on the right)6)
Heat Shrink tube 7)
Optional 3 jumpers: If you are not interested in making rgb led light sensitive, then you will need 3 10 k potentiometer instead of 3 optical resistors. Procedure: 1)
Breadboard and test, your LED can make 3 main colors and a variety of other colors between the two.
You can do this by overwriting the light resistance with different opacity (
The black tape is almost completely opaque while your fingertips may be 1/2 opaque)
Alternatively, if you use a 10 k potentiometer, dial in your color with a flat head screwdriver. 2)
Arranged in perfboard and welding. 3)
Test V and S output 5 v against G. 4)
Any weak connection, including the pin to the perfusion plate. 5)
Make a label and consider the color coding according to the littleBits color code.
The LED is an output, so this one is green. Lego\'s anyone? 6)Great job!
I put a mood light in front of the TV.
Imagine placing an optical resistor under an electric device that blocks the light of another LED in a dynamic intermittent manner. Parts list 1)
Perf plates cut to 9x12 full holes 2)
LED: 5mm bright white-
Radio shed part 2760017 3)
Resistance: 1 220 ohm 4)LM741 op amp -
Radio shed part 276-
0007, Digikey part lm74 1cnns/NOPB-ND . . .
The output pin on 741 is different from the LV321, which is used for the original littlebit schematic of that bit.
Please pay attention to the difference! 5)
Connection pin (
3 on the left and 3 on the right)6)
Heat Shrink tube 7)
Jumper process: 1)
And test whether your LED is bright or not.
By welding the stranded insulated wire to the lead, make the LED a few inches long, but not too long, so that it gets stuck with something.
You can weld your resistance directly to the lead, cover it with a heat shrink tube or tape, or you can display the resistance on the perfboard. 2)
Arranged in perfboard and welding. 3)
Test V and S output 5 v against G. 4)
Any weak connection, including the pin to the perfusion plate. 5)
Make a label and consider color coding based on the littleBits code.
The LED is an output, so this one is green.
That\'s why I stuck the green Lego toy on my body.
Really, you can use anything green. 6)
Connect to your existing DIY bit.
If you do not use the 741 op amp chip, your bright LED may become darker depending on the number of bits you connect together.
If you want a bright LED, you have to have an op amp chip. Parts list: 1)
Perf plates cut to 9x12 full holes 2)
Instant Button-
I took mine from an old broken toy.
Different sizes and shapes. 3)
Capacitance: 0.
1 uF ceramic disc or polyester film is fine
Resistance: 1 M ohm (a. k. a. 1,000K Ohm)5)
Connection pin (
3 on the left and 3 on the right)6)
Jumper process: 1)
Breadboard and test if your button works with the diy led bits inserted into the breadboard.
Use a separate guide rail on the breadboard for signal input and signal output (refer to image).
If you find that your LED fades in and out, you may have used too many capacitors.
If your LED is on and off, your old button can be very poor. 2)
Arranged in perfboard and welding. 3)
Test V and S output 5 v against G. 4)
Any weak connection, including the pin to the perfusion plate. 5)
This input bit is pink and makes a label and color code. 6)
Connect to your existing DIY bit.
Note: I have not made any changes to the little bits circuit, so please refer to the original design on their website. Parts list: 1)
The Perf board is cut into a size suitable for the size of the inverter chip.
I happen to have 74 ac40n so I used a pre-
Printed circuit boards that can accommodate 20 dip chips. 2)capacitor: 0. 1uF 3)
Resistance: 1 M ohm (a. k. a. 1,000K Ohm)4)inverter chip -
The original design required 74 ahc1g04 dck.
For the correct pin output, please refer to the datasheet for the inverter chip.
The picture I\'m showing here refers to 74 ac40n. 5)
Connection pin (
3 on the left and 3 on the right).
I tore my computer out of my neighbor\'s computer. 6)
Jumper process: 1)
And test if your inverter is working properly.
In order to test, you need to insert DIY power DIY button bread board inverter diy led bit into the bread board.
Use a separate guide rail on the breadboard for signal input and signal output (
Reference picture of bread board).
This setting will turn on the LED normally;
The LED turns off when you press the button. 2)
Arranged in perfboard and welding. 3)
Test V and S output 5 v against G. 4)
Any weak connection, including the pin to the perfusion plate. 5)
Make labels and color codes based on littleBits color codes.
The inverter is orange coded. 6)
Connect to your existing DIY bit.
This is very interesting for the pulse bit and a few LEDs.
This is my favorite point!
My pulse runs fast at 50% duty cycle as this is the way I like it.
If you want a longer pulse, you can provide a different variant in the same circuit.
Please refer to the original design of litterbit and the \"LED flash\" design of Forrest Mihm in his book (
Please see the complete reference in the steps described in this manual). Parts list: 1)
The Perf board cut into 9x12 full holes can hold fast dirty pulses, however, if you really want to do your homework, including the op amp chip, please make at least 9x16 chips. 2)555 chip 3)
Operating amplifier chip LM741 (optional? )4)
Capacitor: 10 uF, 0.
01 please pay attention to Polarity! 5)
Resistance: 100 Ohm, 1 k, 10 k, 10 k micropotentiometer 6)
Transistor:
I used 2N2222 7)one LED -
I kept this at the last point, but you might want to simply use it for the breadboard test. 8)
3 Sales 9)
3 jumper program: it can be very difficult for new users to use 555, so take your time.
If you have access to Snap Circuits and 8-
6SC pin IC socket?
U8 then try to build about 555 circuits with KRA5H.
I have built several designs by this Instructure member, like this one :. . .
This is a way to get to know 555, but you can also simply use the breadboard. 1)
Circuit board and test for V and S output 5 v
Take a moment at this step and really think about what capacitors and resistors you want to use. 2)
Arranged in perfboard and welding. 3)
Test V and S output 5 v.
Dial the potential with a flat head screwdriver to test if the pulse duration will change. 4)
Any weak connection, including the output pin to the perfboard. 5)
Mark pulse and color as pink. 6)Great job!
You can now make flashing alarm lights with the following circuit: power supply, pulse set to short duration, RGB led, inverter, long/bright led.
You need a red or blue pen cap to cover the long/bright led, and the RGB led should be set to blue or red.
Parts list: 1)
Perf plates cut to 9x12 full holes 2)
A spdt micro with a 3/4 \"lever (
Radio shed part 275-0016 -
They also have the lever switch with the roller: 275-017)
, Plus a SPDT sliding switch. 3)
Capacitance: 0.
1 uF ceramic disc or polyester film is fine
Resistance: 1 M ohm (a. k. a. 1,000K Ohm)5)
Connection pin (
3 on the left and 3 on the right)6)
Jumper process: 1)
Test if your lever and slide switch are working properly.
I included a video to demonstrate the correct functionality.
I also included a diagram to explain how the \"3 Ways\" work.
Be patient and you will succeed! 2)
Arranged in perfboard and welding.
I tied my switch to the perfboard with the wire from the florist until I tested it to work fine.
After the welding was done, I cut the wire from the florist and fixed the switch with hot glue.
Don\'t use too much, otherwise you may put the switch on or off permanently with hot glue. 3)
Test V and S output 5 v against G. 4)
Any weak connection, including the pin to the perfusion plate. 5)
This is a bit of a pink label and color code. 6)
Connect to your existing DIY bit.
Note: I have not made any changes to the little bits circuit, so please refer to the original design on their website.
As mentioned in the introduction, you can make labels using 6 clear plastic from the recycle bin. Procedure: 1)
Handwritten names on 6 plastics (
Or shrink film made by www. grafixarts. com )
Black sharp marker. 2)
Polish the back of the plastic with medium weight sand (300 -400 grit)sandpaper. 3)
Color the sides of the sand with a white pencil.
Maybe you will use this step to color your bits
Use different colors except white. 4)
Preheat the oven between 300 and 350 degrees. 5)
Cut the text and place it on \"medium weight cardboard, Teflon sheet, parchment or velvet (
Do not bake on bare metal or stone products). \" -
According to the direction of shrink film packaging.
Do the same for your 6 plastic.
It\'s the same thing. 6)Bake for 2-
Heat it for 3 minutes with a stamping tool.
Do not remove from the oven until the workpiece is flattened.
If still curled, flatten with a spatula while hot.
Do not touch with your hands until it is completely cooled. 7)
Glue labels can bite as long as you like.
I made this with Elmer\'s white glue.
This is a more challenging job. Parts list: 1)Perf board. . .
I try to keep all my DIY small parts but this one has a lot of big elements.
I cut my hole into 9x17 full holes which is not enough to accommodate and the gate.
My solution at the time was to insulation and gate wire with black tape and fold it over the top.
The better solution is to start with a larger perf board. 2)
2 LM741 op amp chips 3)Capacitors: 0. 01uF -
You can cheat and leave without this, but it is a good form to leave it on your track.
Google \"bypass capacitors\" for more information. 4)
Resistance: 4x100 K, 1 100 K micro potentiometer, 1 (large? )
Cds anti-photo
More resistance in An AND gate. . . 5)one AND gate -
Two good options are the 74 ls08 quad-core and gate chips that can be bought on a radio shed labeled \"low power IC kit\" in a variety of packages (part 276-0294)
Or you can make it yourself with the transistors and resistors already in your kit.
The parts you need to make and gate are: 2x2N2222 transistor, 2x10 k resistor, 1 47 ohm resistor.
I included a photo of me and gate.
See Google \"transistors and gates\" for more information \". 6)
A dpdt sliding switch 7)
Head pin 8)
Jumper process: 1)
If you have the Forrest Mims III book listed in the first step, assemble the \"light activated siren\" and \"dark activated siren\" circuits.
The handwritten circuit that says \"test\" in the upper right corner I show here is the basic breakdown circuit.
Note that it does not display a green signal in the line that comes in on the left.
This is not a complete little bit circuit.
This is just a bread board demo!
Leave some space on the left and right side of the board for the rest of the circuit. 2)
If you are new to the DPDT switch, there is enough information to drown anyone.
I tagged the two lines from the \"divider\" W and X;
You can imagine 3 and 2 pins entering the second op amp chip as Y and Z.
These tags correspond to the chart on this switch tutorial website :. 3)
For the complete \"light trigger\" circuit, please refer to littlebits.
It is not shown on my instructions. 4)
Complete circuits are arranged on the perf board.
Consider how easy you can flip the switch and try not to put the light blocker in the shadow of any other component. 5)
Test V and S output 5 v.
Test if bit works as described on littleBits. cc . 6)
Any weak connection, including the output pin to the perfboard. 7)
Mark the light trigger as pink and color code it. 8)Woohoo!
Pat yourself on the back and click the \"I made\" button.
My home is working on the following DIY small parts: 1)motor -
I did a job with a 6 transistor H-
The bridge with sliding switch can change the direction of my motor.
But I only have the toy and the electric toothbrush motor, I need the gear motor. :(2)timeout -
I provided a timeout bit with Snap Circuits (see image).
In its current state, it is only in \"on-off\" mode.
This means that when you press the button, the timeout will send an on message to the next bit until the time runs out.
Then it will close.
I still need to add the SPDT switch, the Mosfet N channel and the second op amp chip in order to give it the second \"off-on\" function.
I\'m trying to arrange components to make room for all of this. 3)
Tape recorder-
I found a tape recorder for $2 and it was almost inaudible in its original format.
Maybe I can add an amplifier.
I believe it will be an interesting creation!