light-up shrink plastic mayhem
Until last year, when I rediscovered how versatile it was as a medium.
It\'s easy to shrink plastic (
Cheap if you know where to look)
The decoration project is very good, and the prototype is very convenient.
I made some interesting shapes like lights, jewelry, electric gear and even working gears.
In this structure I will show you how to shineup 3-
Size shrink plastic shape.
Shrink plastic is a special type of plastic called polystyrene that you can find in a lot of taking
Food containers (
Like a salad container)
Cups and anything marked with 6 plastic.
It\'s also in foam, and while I\'m not introducing it here, it does shrink and is worth the experiment.
These sources work well for many projects, obviously at lower cost and have the benefit of being reused.
You can also buy shrink plastic sheets at craft shops and online.
They are made specifically for this purpose and shrink evenly in a way that repeats 6 plastics without reuse;
If you cut out a circle and narrow it down, it may still be a circle at the end of the process.
The 6 containers that are reused may give you a little oval shape.
These sheets are also often more expensive, although you can find the right price through an online search. (
I\'m using Grafix shrink film for $20 per pack of 50 sheets
Not everyone uses that much shrink plastic though! )
If you want to do something that needs to be precisely shaped at the end (like gears), specially-
The sheets made are more reliable.
You will draw and cut a shape from the thin plastic, put it in the oven or toaster oven and watch it shrink until it is a small part smaller than the original size, thicker and hard
Usually it will be more difficult to shape a piece of hard plastic, but then you can customize any piece you like.
Use a permanent mark (like Sharpies)
To draw the design you want on the shrink plastic, remember to make 2-
Zoom out, 3 times bigger than you want, and cut it down. (
I drew thick black lines on my work to make it easier for them to see)
The front part will be the part where you connect the LED, usually with the most decorations.
The rear piece can be any shape you like, usually the same size and shape as the front piece.
Hole or hole (
About 1 inch diameter)
Make Room For LED legs in the center.
If you like power tools (
Or if you forget to make a hole in advance)
, You can drill a hole after shrinking.
The side block can be designed no matter what you like, I have created the size that fits the 10mm LED.
If you cut three. 5-1.
They will shrink to the right size.
Put em on the tray and put it in the oven or toaster oven (
Microwave does not work)
Watching them shrink.
Wait until they stop curling, flatten and stop shrinking, then carefully pull out the trays and let them cool for a few minutes before removing them.
The curl that occurs during the contraction is usually fixed by itself, so please wait.
On larger pieces, the risk of the parties sticking together is greater.
If this happens, work quickly, pull the tray out, gently separate the stuck edge with pliers, then put it back in the oven until it is flattened.
Re: hot glue gun-
They are very hot, you may find. Be careful.
You can find hi. temp, lo-temp, and dual-temp versions.
The high temperature setting is most suitable for making stronger connections on heavier materials (
Such as wood, plastic, metal, ceramics, etc)
, The glue becomes more melted due to heat.
The low temperature makes the glue melt enough to attach, but not enough to make the glue flow all over the place.
Instead, it becomes a better sticky glove when you connect lightweight items for the first time.
I prefer to use a low temperature setting for this project, but this is not absolutely necessary.
\"Low temperature\" does not mean no heat;
The settings can reach 250 degrees Fahrenheit and you can still give yourself a decent burn.
What you may not know is how great the hot glue is as a diffuser for light.
So when you use it to connect your LED, the light travels and seems to come from a wider light source.
You can play this more or less with hot glue.
Safety tip: If you do clamp yourself with a hot glue gun or the tip of the heated glue, you should immediately remove the hot glue from your skin.
This is not always obvious at the moment, your hands just want to stay away from the source, but removing the super hot adhesive from your skin can make a huge difference. (
When it comes to how dangerous the hot glue is, you will notice that my photo is very close to the hot glue.
I suggest you be smarter than me, clamp these parts with pliers or assemble them on the table. )
Once you have all the parts, it\'s time to assemble them.
Apply a mass of hot glue to the front piece and press it on the end of the LED until it cools enough to hold it.
Other small side blocks around the LED are glued together.
For the back, run a line of glue along the top of the side Block, slide the LED leg through the hole and press it together. Tada!
You have a 3d shrink plastic shape!
See what shape you can do.
At this point, you can simply slide a coin battery between the legs of the LED and tape it in place, or you can build a slot to hold the battery.
See photos for how I make my battery pocket.
I use pliers to bend the negative leg of the LED below, which is positive at the top of the battery gap.
Because I needed the positive leg to get to the top without touching the bottom of the battery and the short circuit, I used a little hot glue to insulate that part of the leg.
The pocket is done by bonding on a small piece of unshrunk plastic to keep the battery in place.
Turn on the battery turn it on and push it back to turn it off.
If you come up with another method, please share it in the comments or in your own notes.
You can hang it on a pin, wear it as a brooch, or string it into a necklace, or hang it on the ceiling.
Another idea is to create a string that links LED legs together (
From positive to negative)
And power it from a battery pack.
It can be room decoration, jewelry or part of Halloween costumes. Go nuts!